Shampooing Natural Hair 01/16/12

Are you shampooing your natural hair properly?

Tips from Will William of Sofn’free GroHealthy Products

Why Shampoo Regularly and How Often?

Buildup of sebum, styling products and everyday dirt could hinder hair growth and manageability. To ensure hair is clean but not stripped of moisture, Williams recommends upgrading the shampoo experience by alternating three cleansing formulas throughout the month: 1) sulfate-free shampoo, 2) clarifying shampoo and 3) conditioner.

Every hair type, relaxed or natural, requires at least monthly clarifying washes, even dry hair, as long as deep conditioning follows to replace the conditioners. A deep cleanse removes product buildup, heavy minerals and salts, medications and chlorine. Curls worn with true curl definition that require multiple layers of holding, molding or curly-enhancing products could require up to bi-weekly clarifying. Just as with a moisturizing shampoo, avoid shampoo formulas containing sulfates that could strip natural hair oils and affect color. Always follow clarifying with a deep conditioner.

How to shampoo & What to use?

Use lukewarm to warm water at the start and finish. Using the balls of fingertips, massage in circular motions onto thoroughly wet hair for 1-3 minutes to enable the shampoo to work its way throughout the strands and scalp. Afterward, towel-blot the hair by laying the towel on the hair and pressing to remove water. Do not rub, because rubbing can cause frizzies by splitting the cuticle and disrupting the complexion of the strand. Next, untangle the hair with a wide-tooth comb, starting at the back of the head and working up to top making small partings. At each section, start at the ends and work toward the scalp. At the temples, work inward to the crown. At the front hairline, comb hair forward and work back to crown. Rub a dollop of conditioner between the palms to warm it before apply it to the hair. Start from the roots and finger-comb it to the ends of detangled hair. Slip on a cap or baggy for the duration of the shower. Rinse well, towel-blot, and comb again gently.

Use Sulfate-free Shampoo. Why?

At the microscopic level, one end of a surfactant molecule draws to water, the other repels it and attaches itself to oils in dirt. These opposing forces create a back and forth motion that loosens dirt and suspends it in the suds, ready to rinse away with warm water.

Why Co-Wash?

Condition after each shampoo, but also consider conditioner washing, also known as co-washing or no-poo, on days hair is relatively clean but needs refreshing or taming. This involves no shampoo, just a conditioner that acts as a light cleanser while it coats the hair cuticle.

Each strand has a light negative electric charge called an anion. That anion requires a neutralizing conditioner to decrease static electricity and to smooth down the outer layer hair cuticle. Even after a rinse of water, some conditioner remains on the hair due to the strong positive-negative charge attraction. The cleaning part comes into play when the conditioner’s surfactants surround dirt, dislodge it, and rinse away.