Gray hair can be pretty stubborn in nature whether you’re styling or coloring your natural hair. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the gray, but some want to color the gray. It’s a bit of a technical process. Here are some things you need to know about coloring with gray coverage. But if in doubt consult a professional colorist.
The key to successful gray coverage is using a color that has the proper contributing pigment that are lost in the gray hair. Neutral shades replenish the pigments lost in silver hair, which then allows it to grab a more natural, realistic shade, as well as last longer. Remember, when attempting red and gold based shades; add a drop of a neutral based color to avoid slightly irregular pigmentation.
To optimize color, shampoo hair and apply color after towel drying. Shampoo and slightly warmer water temperature helps open the strands of the hair, allowing the color to penetrate to the cortex. Proceed to condition hair after rinsing color to help shut down cuticle. This should provide favorable gray coverage with lasting results.
Henna (Lush)
[ad name=”ad3″]Henna derives from a tropical shrub, and usually comes in a reddish-brown pigment or black (enhanced dye). It has gained popularity due to its natural composition, catering to those looking for a healthier option. Henna provides great coverage, especially when attempting to cover gray hair because it stains the strands of the hair and making it permanent. But, be advised that if it is a possible desire to go lighter in the future, the use of henna should be reconsidered because it doesn’t lift out easily, if even a little. Also, truly ALL – NATURAL henna dyes don’t provide lift. Be careful if it promises a lift because 9 times out of 10 it’s a compound mixture and isn’t all natural. When deciding whether to use, know the pros and cons of henna dye.
Pros:
1) Healthier option due to most henna product lines being all natural
2) Gives great coverage, ridding you of those stubborn, hard to conceal grays
3) Doesn’t fade, providing long lasting results
Cons:
1) Doesn’t lift out
2) Doesn’t provide lift necessary to achieve lighter shades
3) Can pull a reddish tone (only bad if that isn’t the desired look) due to its natural reddish brown pigmentation and isn’t as predictable as mixed or boxed colors
4) If hair has been previously colored with ammonia/hydrogen peroxide products, it can cause a discoloration in deposited pigment. Depending on color on hair, the henna can sometimes result in a green hue.
Color Charm Demi Permanent
Available in your local Sally Beauty Supply, Wella Color Charm Demi Permanent is a great product, providing lasting results, as well as gray coverage. It doesn’t provide a lift, but does deliver lighter pigments to gray hair. You see a noticeable difference when depositing any shades between the levels 1-7 listed which may appear on the box as 7n-7.0. The seven indicates the lightness or level, while the “n” indicates the contributing pigment which is neutral.
Neutral shades deliver the best natural coverage due to its pigment construction, having all necessary contributing pigments. Lighter shades and red tones will appear a bit brighter and slightly irregular because it’s being deposited on white/silver hair. Think about it like this, if you have gold and you mix it with white/silver, it will appear a pale yellow. If you have red and it is mixed with white/silver, it will appear slightly pink.
So, in order to avoid this, add a drop of neutral, in whatever lightness or level of red or gold that you have decided to use. For example, if one desires a 5R-5/4 but desires it to be as true as possible, add a drop of 5n-5/0. Following this protocol will ensure that the gray hair doesn’t pull a pinkish tone, instead of its desired tone displayed on the color swatch.
This process works with golden/blonde shades as well. Wella Color Charm Demi Permanent is sensitive, and isn’t harsh on the hair. It is ammonia free, provides no lift, can be used to refresh dull color and is long lasting. Other brands to try: Redken Shades EQ, ISO Luminate, Ion Color Brilliance, Goldwell Colorance)
Pros:
1) Ammonia free, making it a healthier option
2) Great coverage up to 7 levels when proper formula used
3) Doesn’t fade, providing long lasting results
Cons:
1) Doesn’t provide a lift due to it being ammonia free
2) Can deliver slightly irregular pigment if not properly mixed with a neutral base when attempting total gray coverage
3) Doesn’t lift out easily, but is possible with lightener and peroxide
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